Tel : 01547 530419
Email : info@hornseysteels.co.uk
Fax: 01547 530780
Established Since 1992 (25 years Experience) Nationwide Delivery & Collection Service Based in South Shropshire

Fitting

Here at Hornsey Steels Ltd we strive to make sure that our customers have the information they need when they buy our products. Please select one of the tabs below to view details for the fitting of the selected steel sheet as well as cutting/ trimming, stitching and purlin spacing advice.

32/1000 ROOF

32/1000 roof sheeting can be laid either left to right or right to left. If you require to lay right to left just simply turn the sheet around. Making sure the overlapping edge is at the start of the process ready for the next sheet to overlap the underlapped side (as shown). We recommend laying away from the common prevailing wind to help prevent wind whistling and water capillary. Please note the overlapping edge is always the unfinished castle overlapping the finished castle.

Fixing screws are highly recommended to screw between the strengthening ribs in the valley of the sheet (as shown). Usually fixed in the 1st, 3rd and 5th trough (left, middle, right) to have a symmetrical appearance and a strong holding into the purlins. Fixing in every purlin if possible but every two is adequate on short purlin spacings.

32-1000 box profile forward roof & tile

*** The drawing shown is for illustration purposed only! ***

We recommend using a maximum purlin spacing of 750mm for 0.5mm and 1250mm for 0.7mm, but not going any more than 1000mm for 0.5mm and 1500mm for 0.7mm unless it’s necessary.

Stitching the sheeting overlaps are very important (as shown). Stitching the overlapping castle every 500mm is adequate but if you can fix anything up to 750mm if necessary. This will help prevent water capillary seeping underneath the sheet. Also applying lap tape or silicone to the join will help decrease this even further.

If rooflights are being used, they operate in the same way as the steel sheeting. But clear silicone must be applied all the way around the sheet when being fitted to create a water tight seal. Some jobs that require building regulations will require you to use a Poppy Red Cap on the fixings to show where rooflights are situated when roofing maintenance is carried out. Also using the 29mm washer and 29mm cap with the main fixings will help prevent the fixing holes in the rooflights from leaking in due course.

Ridge and Barge flashings are always fitted after the sheeting. Again, using the stitching screw to fix through the flashing into the castle of the sheeting. Once this process is complete then fitting a foam infill between at the ridge end and the eaves end is recommended to help prevent birds / vermin entering the structure at the same time stopping wind pushing anything through during poor weather conditions. (please note we DO NOT recommend using foam infills if you have our Dripstop membrane system installed to your sheeting due to the roof requiring ventilation for the Dripstop to work at its optimum).

If the sheeting or flashings need cutting / trimming, we recommend using our ‘Nibbler Attachment’ due to the clean precision cut it can offer. Angle grinders are commonly used but this will not offer a clean cut. A 110v Nibbler will be the most sufficient tool for this but our Nibbler Attachment tool is handy if you only own a Drill.

34/1000 ROOF

34/1000 roof sheeting can be laid either left to right or right to left. If you require to lay right to left just simply turn the sheet around. Making sure the overlapping edge is at the start of the process ready for the next sheet to overlap the underlapped side (as shown). We recommend laying away from the common prevailing wind to help prevent wind whistling and water capillary. Please note the overlapping edge is always the unfinished castle overlapping the finished castle.

Fixing screws are highly recommended to screw between the strengthening ribs in the valley of the sheet (as shown). Usually fixed in the 1st, 3rd, 4th and 6th trough (left, left middle, right middle right) to have a symmetrical appearance and a strong holding into the purlins. Fixing in every purlin if possible but every two is adequate on short purlin spacings.

34-1000 box profile forward roof

*** The drawing shown is for illustration purposed only! ***

We recommend using a maximum purlin spacing of 750mm for 0.5mm and 1250mm for 0.7mm, but not going any more than 1000mm for 0.5mm and 1500mm for 0.7mm unless it’s necessary.

Stitching the sheeting overlaps are very important (as shown). Stitching the overlapping castle every 500mm is adequate but if you can fix anything up to 750mm if necessary. This will help prevent water capillary seeping underneath the sheet. Also applying lap tape or silicone to the join will help decrease this even further.

If rooflights are being used, they operate in the same way as the steel sheeting. But clear silicone must be applied all the way around the sheet when being fitted to create a water tight seal. Some jobs that require building regulations will require you to use a Poppy Red Cap on the fixings to show where rooflights are situated when roofing maintenance is carried out. Also using the 29mm washer and 29mm cap with the main fixings will help prevent the fixing holes in the rooflights from leaking in due course.

Ridge and Barge flashings are always fitted after the sheeting. Again, using the stitching screw to fix through the flashing into the castle of the sheeting. Once this process is complete then fitting a foam infill between at the ridge end and the eaves end is recommended to help prevent birds / vermin entering the structure at the same time stopping wind pushing anything through during poor weather conditions. (please note we DO NOT recommend using foam infills if you have our Dripstop membrane system installed to your sheeting due to the roof requiring ventilation for the Dripstop to work at its optimum).

If the sheeting or flashings need cutting / trimming, we recommend using our ‘Nibbler Attachment’ due to the clean precision cut it can offer. Angle grinders are commonly used but this will not offer a clean cut. A 110v Nibbler will be the most sufficient tool for this but our Nibbler Attachment tool is handy if you only own a Drill.

14/3’’ CORRUGATED

14/3’’ sheeting can be laid either left to right or right to left. Due to having a fully symmetrical profile turning the sheet isn’t required, but when fitting the sheeting you will have to overlap two (2) corrugations (as shown). This will help prevent any water capillary and you will still get the full 990mm cover. We recommend laying away from the common prevailing wind to help prevent wind whistling and water capillary.

Fixing screws are highly recommended to screw through the castle of the sheet (as shown). Usually fixed in the 2nd, 6th, 9th and 13th corrugation to have a symmetrical appearance and a strong holding into the purlins. Then Stitching in the 1st and 14th corrugation. Fixing in every purlin if possible but every two is adequate on short purlin spacings.

HSL 14-3” CORRUGATED

*** The drawing shown is for illustration purposed only! ***

We recommend using a maximum purlin spacing of 750mm for 0.5mm and 1250mm for 0.7mm, but not going any more than 1000mm for 0.5mm and 1500mm for 0.7mm unless it’s necessary.

Stitching the sheeting overlaps are very important (as shown). Stitching the overlapping castle every 500mm is adequate but if you can fix anything up to 750mm if necessary. This will help prevent water capillary seeping underneath the sheet. Also applying lap tape or silicone to the join will help decrease this even further.

If rooflights are being used, they operate in the same way as the steel sheeting. But clear silicone must be applied all the way around the sheet when being fitted to create a water tight seal. Some jobs that require building regulations will require you to use a Poppy Red Cap on the fixings to show where rooflights are situated when roofing maintenance is carried out. The 29mm washer and cap can not be used on this profile.

Ridge and Barge flashings are always fitted after the sheeting. Again, using the stitching screw to fix through the flashing into the castle of the sheeting. Once this process is complete then fitting a foam infill between at the ridge end and the eaves end is recommended to help prevent birds / vermin entering the structure at the same time stopping wind pushing anything through during poor weather conditions. (please note we DO NOT recommend using foam infills if you have our Dripstop membrane system installed to your sheeting due to the roof requiring ventilation for the Dripstop to work at its optimum).

If the sheeting or flashings need cutting / trimming, we recommend using our ‘Nibbler Attachment’ due to the clean precision cut it can offer. Angle grinders are commonly used but this will not offer a clean cut. A 110v Nibbler will be the most sufficient tool for this but our Nibbler Attachment tool is handy if you only own a Drill.

32/1000 TILE

32/1000 tile sheeting can only be laid left to right, Due to only being tiled one way. Making sure the overlapping edge is at the start of the process ready for the next sheet to overlap the underlapped side (as shown). We recommend laying away from the common prevailing wind to help prevent wind whistling and water capillary but on this profile sometimes this cannot be helped. Please note the overlapping edge is always the unfinished castle overlapping the finished castle.

Fixing screws are highly recommended to screw between the strengthening ribs in the valley of the sheet (as shown). Usually fixed in the 1st, 3rd and 5th trough (left, middle, right) to have a symmetrical appearance and a strong holding into the purlins. Fixing in every purlin if possible but every two is adequate on short purlin spacings.

32-1000 box profile forward roof & tile

*** The drawing shown is for illustration purposed only! ***

We recommend using a maximum purlin spacing of either 300mm or 600mm for 0.5mm only, due to the tile centres being at 300mm. Having an irregular purlin centre may result in a tile crimp sitting directly onto the purlin creating an uneven lay in the finished roof.

Stitching the sheeting overlaps are very important (as shown). Stitching the overlapping castle every 300mm (each tile) is adequate but if you can fix at 600mm (every 2 tiles) if necessary. This will help prevent water capillary seeping underneath the sheet. Applying lap tape isn’t recommended with this profile but silicone can be used if you require to.

Ridge and Barge flashings are always fitted after the sheeting. Again, using the stitching screw to fix through the flashing into the castle of the sheeting. Once this process is complete then fitting a foam infill between at the ridge end and the eaves end is recommended to help prevent birds / vermin entering the structure at the same time stopping wind pushing anything through during poor weather conditions. (please note we DO NOT recommend using foam infills if you have our Dripstop membrane system installed to your sheeting due to the roof requiring ventilation for the Dripstop to work at its optimum).

If the sheeting or flashings need cutting / trimming, we recommend using our ‘Nibbler Attachment’ due to the clean precision cut it can offer. Angle grinders are commonly used but this will not offer a clean cut. A 110v Nibbler will be the most sufficient tool for this but our Nibbler Attachment tool is handy if you only own a Drill.

33/1000 TILE

33/1000 tile sheeting can only be laid left to right, Due to only being tiled one way. Making sure the overlapping edge is at the start of the process ready for the next sheet to overlap the underlapped side (as shown). We recommend laying away from the common prevailing wind to help prevent wind whistling and water capillary but on this profile sometimes this cannot be helped. Please note the overlapping edge is always the unfinished castle overlapping the finished castle.

Fixing screws are highly recommended to screw between the strengthening ribs in the valley of the sheet (as shown). Usually fixed in the 1st, 3rd and 5th trough (left, middle, right) to have a symmetrical appearance and a strong holding into the purlins. But as the drawing shows please try and fix in the flattest part of the trough to allow this fixing to sit tight against the purlin without kinking the sheet, as this profile has varying radius’s. Fixing in every purlin if possible but every two is adequate on short purlin spacings.

33-1000 pantile

*** The drawing shown is for illustration purposed only! ***

We recommend using a maximum purlin spacing of either 300mm or 600mm for 0.5mm only, due to the tile centres being at 300mm. Having an irregular purlin centre may result in a tile crimp sitting directly onto the purlin creating an uneven lay in the finished roof.

Stitching the sheeting overlaps are very important (as shown). Stitching the overlapping castle every 300mm (each tile) is adequate but if you can fix at 600mm (every 2 tiles) if necessary. This will help prevent water capillary seeping underneath the sheet. Applying lap tape isn’t recommended with this profile but silicone can be used if you require to.

Ridge and Barge flashings are always fitted after the sheeting. Again, using the stitching screw to fix through the flashing into the castle of the sheeting. Once this process is complete then fitting a foam infill between at the ridge end and the eaves end is recommended to help prevent birds / vermin entering the structure at the same time stopping wind pushing anything through during poor weather conditions. (please note we DO NOT recommend using foam infills if you have our Dripstop membrane system installed to your sheeting due to the roof requiring ventilation for the Dripstop to work at its optimum).

If the sheeting or flashings need cutting / trimming, we recommend using our ‘Nibbler Attachment’ due to the clean precision cut it can offer. Angle grinders are commonly used but this will not offer a clean cut. A 110v Nibbler will be the most sufficient tool for this but our Nibbler Attachment tool is handy if you only own a Drill.

8/3’’ & 10/3’’ CORRUGATED

8/3’’ and 10/3’’ sheeting can be laid either left to right or right to left. Due to having a fully symmetrical profile turning the sheet isn’t required, but when fitting the sheeting you will have to overlap only one (1) corrugation (as shown). This will help prevent any water capillary and you will still get the full 610mm for 8/3’’ and 762mm for 10/3’’ cover. We recommend laying away from the common prevailing wind to help prevent wind whistling and water capillary.

Fixing screws are highly recommended to screw through the castle of the sheet (as shown). Usually fixed in the 2nd, 5th and 8th corrugation on the 8/3’’ and 2nd, 6th and 10th corrugation on the 10/3’’ to have a symmetrical appearance and a strong holding into the purlins. Then Stitching in the 1st and 9th corrugation for the 8/3’’ and the 1st and 11th corrugation for the 10/3’’ profile. Fixing in every purlin if possible but every two is adequate on short purlin spacings.

HSL 8-3” CORRUGATED HSL 10” CORRUGATED

*** The drawing shown is for illustration purposed only! ***

We recommend using a maximum purlin spacing of 750mm for 0.5mm and 1250mm for 0.7mm, but not going any more than 1000mm for 0.5mm and 1500mm for 0.7mm unless it’s necessary.

Stitching the sheeting overlaps are very important (as shown). Stitching the overlapping castle every 500mm is adequate but if you can fix anything up to 750mm if necessary. This will help prevent water capillary seeping underneath the sheet. Also applying lap tape or silicone to the join will help decrease this even further.

Ridge and Barge flashings are always fitted after the sheeting. Again, using the stitching screw to fix through the flashing into the castle of the sheeting. Once this process is complete then fitting a foam infill between at the ridge end and the eaves end is recommended to help prevent birds / vermin entering the structure at the same time stopping wind pushing anything through during poor weather conditions.

If the sheeting or flashings need cutting / trimming, we recommend using our ‘Nibbler Attachment’ due to the clean precision cut it can offer. Angle grinders are commonly used but this will not offer a clean cut. A 110v Nibbler will be the most sufficient tool for this but our Nibbler Attachment tool is handy if you only own a Drill.

FIBRE CEMENT P6 AND INSULATED PANELS
For fixing and fitting details on the products in question, please see their respective brochures which include fixing points and overlapping instructions. If you require any further assistance with fitting instructions, then please don’t hesitate to contact the Hornsey Steels team.
32/1000 WALL

32/1000 wall sheeting can be laid either left to right or right to left. If you require to lay right to left just simply turn the sheet around. Making sure the overlapping edge is at the start of the process ready for the next sheet to overlap the underlapped side (as shown). We recommend laying away from the common prevailing wind to help prevent wind whistling and water capillary. Please note the overlapping edge is always the unfinished castle overlapping the finished castle.

Fixing screws are highly recommended to screw through the inner castle (as shown). Usually fixed in every section to have a symmetrical appearance and a strong holding into the purlins. Fixing in every purlin if possible but every two is adequate on short purlin spacings.

32-1000 BOX profile Reverse WALL

*** The drawing shown is for illustration purposed only! ***

We recommend using a maximum purlin spacing of 1000mm for 0.5mm and 1500mm for 0.7mm, but not going any more than 1250mm for 0.5mm and 1750mm for 0.7mm unless it’s necessary.

Stitching the sheeting overlaps are very important (as shown). Stitching the overlapping castle every 500mm is adequate but if you can fix anything up to 750mm if necessary. This will help prevent water capillary seeping underneath the sheet. Also applying lap tape or silicone isn’t necessary for wall cladding.

If the sheeting or flashings need cutting / trimming, we recommend using our ‘Nibbler Attachment’ due to the clean precision cut it can offer. Angle grinders are commonly used but this will not offer a clean cut. A 110v Nibbler will be the most sufficient tool for this but our Nibbler Attachment tool is handy if you only own a Drill.

34/1000 WALL

34/1000 wall sheeting can be laid either left to right or right to left. If you require to lay right to left just simply turn the sheet around. Making sure the overlapping edge is at the start of the process ready for the next sheet to overlap the underlapped side (as shown). We recommend laying away from the common prevailing wind to help prevent wind whistling and water capillary. Please note the overlapping edge is always the unfinished castle overlapping the finished castle.

Fixing screws are highly recommended to screw through the inner castle (as shown). Usually fixed in every section to have a symmetrical appearance and a strong holding into the purlins. Fixing in every purlin if possible but every two is adequate on short purlin spacings.

34-1000 box profile Reverse wall

*** The drawing shown is for illustration purposed only! ***

We recommend using a maximum purlin spacing of 1000mm for 0.5mm and 1500mm for 0.7mm, but not going any more than 1250mm for 0.5mm and 1750mm for 0.7mm unless it’s necessary.

Stitching the sheeting overlaps are very important (as shown). Stitching the overlapping castle every 500mm is adequate but if you can fix anything up to 750mm if necessary. This will help prevent water capillary seeping underneath the sheet. Also applying lap tape or silicone isn’t necessary for wall cladding.

If the sheeting or flashings need cutting / trimming, we recommend using our ‘Nibbler Attachment’ due to the clean precision cut it can offer. Angle grinders are commonly used but this will not offer a clean cut. A 110v Nibbler will be the most sufficient tool for this but our Nibbler Attachment tool is handy if you only own a Drill.